Before you go any further…
The latest firmware can be downloaded here:
Please take a look at the READ ME FIRST document to see what may have changed in the current revision!
As of version 102, which began being shipped with kits beginning Oct 1st, the ports to which you need to attach the modules have changed!
We now return you to your regularly scheduled instruction manual…
The following illustrations show how to connect everything to the Mighty:
(Note that with the extension cable addon, the order in which you chain the two LED modules to the Mighty is reversed!)
In some cases the wires you receive will not match the colors shown in the diagram. With the switches, polarity doesn’t matter; as long as you plug the switch into the right IO port, (being sure to skip the center pin) you’ll be fine. With LEDs, polarity does matter, but getting the wires backwards won’t harm the LED, so just flip it around. There are very few ways in which you might damage the kit. Making sure to use and wire the voltage regulator properly is the main thing you need to be concerned with.
Here’s how the boards are fit in the thrower when using a kit without the extension cable upgrade:
With an extension cable, the only board you would install in the thrower is the LED module seen here next to the heat sink. Without the other boards in place, you could position that by the side knobs or attach it to the baseplate. You will find photos showing how to install the extension cable at the end of this page.
Here is a photo of the budget strobe, showing the three spare LED ports on the thrower LED module that it plugs into:
The following diagram shows how to wire the kit if you wish to use an 11.1v rechargeable LiPo battery:
If you wish to use 8 D alkaline cells, you will not need the charger or the low voltage alarm, but otherwise the wiring will be the same. You do not need to use the push in connectors to splice the wires, they are just a suggestion to avoid soldering.